Jim Lee

Jim Lee (1945–2023) was the “original wild child of fashion photography,” known for his stylish, theatrical imagery and his unapologetically narrative-driven approach. Emerging in the late 1960s, Lee revolutionized fashion photography by shifting focus away from the garments themselves and toward the stories that could be told through image-making. His work introduced a cinematic, often provocative flair to editorial spreads, marked by elaborate sets, ambitious outdoor productions, and bold, conceptual staging.

Born to MI5 operatives, Lee’s early life hinted at the unconventional path he would later take. At seventeen, he moved to Australia, where he discovered photography and began developing a visual language rooted in adventure and experimentation. Upon returning to London during the height of the Swinging Sixties, he gained recognition photographing bands such as The Who, The Beatles, and The Rolling Stones. His gritty, photojournalistic style soon caught the attention of fashion editors and designers, including a young Anna Wintour, Yves Saint Laurent, and Gianni Versace.

Lee became a pioneer in reimagining the possibilities of fashion and advertising photography. His images, often referencing current events such as the Vietnam War or the Baader-Meinhof affair, wove together politics and aesthetics. Over time, his visual approach evolved into what he described as “a romantic soft-focus frenzy,” though he never strayed from his dedication to storytelling. His photographs placed desire and drama in service of consumption while maintaining an edge of introspective commentary.

In addition to his editorial and advertising work, Lee covered runway shows for designers like Alexander McQueen and Zandra Rhodes and directed music videos and commercials. His photographs often featured subjects looking away from the lens, creating a voyeuristic quality that invited viewers into a constructed world—believable, surreal, and emotionally charged.

Lee’s work is held in the permanent collections of institutions including the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, the Multimedia Art Museum in Moscow, and the National Art Museum of China in Beijing. His legacy continues to influence fashion photography through its fearless embrace of narrative and theatricality.