Horst P. Horst - Nina de Voogh
Horst P. Horst
Nina de Voogh
Silver Gelatin Photograph
1951, Printed Later
20 x 16 inches

Signed, titled and dated on print verso.

Horst P. Horst - Carmen Face Massage
Horst P. Horst
Carmen Face Massage
Silver Gelatin Photograph
1946, Printed Later
20 x 16 inches

Signed, titled, and dated on print verso.

Horst P. Horst - Norell Fragrance
Horst P. Horst
Norell Fragrance
Platinum/Palladium Photograph
1988, Printed Later
20 x 16 inches

Signed, titled, and dated on print verso. Artist blind stamp on recto

Horst P. Horst - Odalisque I
Horst P. Horst
Odalisque I
Platinum Photograph on Silk (Pima Cotton)
1943, Print made early 1990's
8 3/4 x 6 3/4 inches

Blindstamp (in the margin); signed, titled, dated and annotated in pencil (on the verso)

Horst P. Horst - Lisa on Silk I
Horst P. Horst
Lisa on Silk I
Silver Gelatin Photograph
1939, Printed Later
14 x 11 inches

Signed, titled and dated in pencil on verso. Artist blind stamp on recto.

Horst P. Horst - Female Nude with Chair
Horst P. Horst
Female Nude with Chair
Silver Gelatin Photograph
1950, Printed Later
14 x 11 inches

Signed, titled, and dated on print verso. Artist blind stamp on recto

Horst P. Horst - Lisa Money Plant
Horst P. Horst
Lisa Money Plant
Silver Gelatin Photograph
1939, Printed Later
20 x 16 inches

Signed, titled, and dated on print verso.

Horst P. Horst - Round the Clock IV
Horst P. Horst
Round the Clock IV
Platinum/Palladium Photograph
1987, Printed Later
20 x 16 inches

Signed, titled, and dated on print verso. Artist blind stamp on recto

Patrick Demarchelier - Madonna
Patrick Demarchelier
Madonna
Selenium Toned Silver Gelatin Photograph
1990
20 x 16 inches

Signed, titled, dated and # 9/20 on verso. Photographer's credit and copyright stamp on verso.

Patrick Demarchelier - Gisele
Patrick Demarchelier
Gisele
Selenium Toned Silver Gelatin Photograph
1999
24 x 20 inches

Signed, titled, dated and # 6/20 on verso. Photographer's credit and copyright stamp on verso.

Patrick Demarchelier - Helena, New York
Patrick Demarchelier
Helena, New York
Selenium Toned Silver Gelatin Photograph
1992
24 x 20 inches

Signed, titled, dated and # 8/20 on verso. Photographer's credit and copyright stamp on verso.

Patrick Demarchelier - Cindy, New York
Patrick Demarchelier
Cindy, New York
Sepia Toned Silver Gelatin Photograph
1990
24 x 20 inches

Signed, titled, dated and # 13/20 on verso. Photographer's credit and copyright stamp on verso.

Patrick Demarchelier - Nude, New York
Patrick Demarchelier
Nude, New York
Selenium Toned Silver Gelatin Photograph
1975
20 x 16 inches

Signed, titled, dated and # 8/20 on verso. Photographer's credit and copyright stamp on verso.

Patrick Demarchelier - Vogue Anniversary
Patrick Demarchelier
Vogue Anniversary
Selenium Toned Silver Gelatin Photograph
1992
48 x 48 inches

Signed, titled, dated and # 3/8 on label affixed to verso. Photographer's credit and copyright stamp on label on verso.

Albert Watson- Sebastian in Issey Miyake, New York City
Albert Watson
Sebastian in Issey Miyake, New York City
Archival Pigment Photograph
1989, Printed 2012
56 x 42 inches

Signed, titled, dated and numbered ( edition of 10) on verso.

Albert Watson - Christy Turlington, Luxor, Egypt
Albert Watson
Christy Turlington, Luxor, Egypt
Archival Pigment Photograph
1987, Printed 2012
30 x 24 inches

Signed, titled, dated and numbered (edition of 25) on verso.

Albert Watson - Leslie, Yohji Yamamoto, London
Albert Watson
Leslie, Yohji Yamamoto, London
Archival Pigment Photograph
1989, printed later
56 x 42 inches

Signed, titled, dated and editioned (7/10) on artist's signature label on verso.

Albert Watson - Cecilia Chancellor, London
Albert Watson
Cecilia Chancellor, London
Archival Pigment Photograph
1984, Printed 2008
56 x 42 inches

Signed, titled, dated and numbered (edition of 10) on verso.

Albert Watson - Leslie Weiner, Yohji Yamamoto, London
Albert Watson
Leslie Weiner, Yohji Yamamoto, London
Archival Pigment Photograph
1989, printed later
56 x 42 inches

Signed, titled, dated and editioned (4/10) on artist's signature label on verso.

Albert Watson - Gisella, Paris
Albert Watson
Gisella, Paris
Archival Pigment Photograph
1990, Printed 2012
56 x 42 inches

Signed, titled, dated and numbered (edition of 10) on verso.

Albert Watson - Charlotte, New Mexico
Albert Watson
Charlotte, New Mexico
Archival Pigment Photograph
1986, Printed 2009
56 x 42 inches

Signed, titled, dated and numbered (edition of 10) on verso.

Albert Watson - Charlotte in Prada Blouse, Milan, Italy
Albert Watson
Charlotte in Prada Blouse, Milan, Italy
Archival Pigment Photograph
1989, Printed 2008
56 x 42 inches

Signed, titled, dated and numbered (edition of 10) on verso.

Ruth Bernhard - Classic Torso
Ruth Bernhard
Classic Torso
Silver Gelatin Photograph
1952, Printed Later
13 1/2 x 9 5/8 inches

Mounted, signed in pencil on the mount, signed, titled, and dated in pencil and with the photographer's copyright stamp on the reverse.

Ruth Bernhard - Perspective II
Ruth Bernhard
Perspective II
Platinum/Palladium Photograph
1967, Printed 1996
14 X 20 Inches

Signed in pencil in the margin on recto. Title, date, copyright, edition 'Letter F of 6,' and printing notations in pencil on the verso

Ruth Bernhard - Wet Silk
Ruth Bernhard
Wet Silk
Silver Gelatin Photograph
1938, Printed 1980s
13 1/2 x 9 1/2 inches

Signed in pencil, on mount recto. Signature, title, date, in pencil and copyright stamp, on mount verso

Ruth Bernhard - Hips Horizontal
Ruth Bernhard
Hips Horizontal
Silver Gelatin Photograph
1975, Printed 1984
7 1/4 x 9 1/2 inches

Bernhard's signature and edition notations 64/75, in pencil, on mount recto

Ruth Bernhardt - In the Box-Horizontal
Ruth Bernhard
In the Box-Horizontal
Silver Gelatin Photograph
1962, Printed Later
7 3/8 x 13 1/8 inches

Signed and numbered 32/75 in pencil on the mount; titled, dated, numbered in pencil, and the 'Ruth Bernhard: The Eternal Body/Special Edition Print 1984' stamp on the mount verso.

Cathleen Naundorf - The Evolution of Fashion, II, Dior - Haute Couture, Winter 2
Cathleen Naundorf
The Evolution of Fashion, II, Dior - Haute Couture, Winter 2004
C-Type Color Photograph
2010
43 x 31 inches

Signed, titled, dated and numbered 1/10 on verso. Artist blind stamp.

Cathleen Naundorf -La Fille en Platre IV, Paris Dior, Haute Couture 2007
Cathleen Naundorf
La Fille en Platre IV, Paris Dior, Haute Couture 2007
C-Type Color Photograph
2009
67 x 43 inches

Signed, titled, dated, editioned 1/10 on verso.

Cathleen Naundorf - Sweet Sleep, Paris Ellie Saab, Haute Couture 2012
Cathleen Naundorf
Sweet Sleep, Paris Ellie Saab, Haute Couture 2012
C-Type Color Photograph
2010
31 x 43 inches

Signed, titled, dated and numbered 1/10 on verso. Artist blind stamp.

Cathleen Naundorf - 4pm in London, Philip Treacy, Haute Couture Underwear
Cathleen Naundorf
4pm in London, Philip Treacy, hat / Cadolle (lingerie) Haute Couture 2009
C-Type Color Photograph
2009, Printed later
51 x 35 inches

Signed, titled, dated and numbered 2/10 on artist's label on verso.

Harry Benson - Galliano, Paris
Harry Benson
Galliano, Paris
Archival Pigment Photograph
1993, Printed Later
13 x 19 inches

Signed, titled, dated and numbered (edition of 35) on recto.

Harry Benson - Galliano, Paris #2
Harry Benson
Galliano, Paris #2
Archival Pigment Photograph
1993, Printed Later
13 x 19 inches

Signed, titled, dated and numbered (edition of 35) on recto.

Harry Benson - Kate Moss (standing alone backstage)
Harry Benson
Kate Moss (standing alone backstage), Paris
Infused Dyes Sublimated on Aluminum
1993, Printed 2015
44 x 30 1/2 inches

Signed, titled, dated and # 1/12 in ink on recto.

Harry Benson - Dior #1
Harry Benson
Dior #1
Silver Gelatin Photograph
1997, Printed Later
19 3/4 x 15 7/8 inches

Signed, titled, dated and numbered (edition of 35) on recto.

Patrick Demarchelier - Madonna - TB
Patrick Demarchelier - Gisele - TB
Patrick Demarchelier - Helena, New York - TB
Patrick Demarchelier - Cindy, New York - TB
Patrick Demarchelier - Nude, New York - TB
Patrick Demarchelier - Vogue Anniversary - TB
Ruth Bernhard - Classic Torso-TB
Ruth Bernhard - Perspective II - TB
Ruth Bernhard - Wet Silk - TB
Ruth Bernhard - Hips Horizontal - TB
Harry Benson - Galliano, Paris - TB
Harry Benson - Galliano, Paris #2 - TB
Harry Benson - Dior #1 - TB

Fashion and the Female Form

11/22/2014 - 12/20/2014

INSTALLATION IMAGES

The genre of fashion photography and the genre of the nude are both well developed and long established interests of photographers although they can be thought of as quite different directions for photographers to work in. Fashion photographers’ emphasis on desires, fantasies, and projections of wish fulfillment underscores the psychology of fashion photography which plays into the unreal where the viewer is encouraged to escape into the picture and enter a rarified world where they can be participants. The history of the nude in photography has always stressed the real, personal, and the ephemeral with the private aspects of an individual revealed to the lens of the camera. The beauty of the uniqueness and imperfections of the individual are as fascinating as the idealized beauty of a body that conforms to society’s aesthetic standards of perfection. These standards have changed and evolved over time, just as our taste in fashion has.

There is an important intersection and much common ground in both genres. These kinds of photography celebrate female beauty and allure, whether adorned or unadorned. Since the 1920s both fashion photography (through the popularity of British and French Vogue under the direction of Carmel Snow and Diana Vreeland) and the nude (first championed through the art referential work of the Pictorialists starting as early as the 1910s) have been mature enough, and sophisticated enough disciplines to be mythologized. The pursuit of standards of “great fashion” and the championing of the beautiful nude have engendered a rich library of remarkably beautiful work. The range of work in both subjects has demonstrated the artists’ efforts to glorify women. The female allure has been inherent in photography almost from its inception and photography, by its very nature, acts to immortalize its subjects. The great practitioners of both fashion photography and the nude have produced works of brilliance and lasting power.

Beginning in the 1920s with the elegant work of George Hoyningen-Huene and Edward Steichen, there was a seriousness and sophistication given to fashion photography. Perhaps the greatest early watershed photographer to show the powers and expressive capability of photography in pursuit of fashion was Horst P. Horst, who was mentored by Huene. He is an example, as are many of the great fashion photographers, of a photographer known both for brilliant fashion based work and for photographing the nude. Horst deftly captured, or more accurately constructed memorable images through a daring integration of lighting, camera angle, and a careful modeling of the female form. He understood the architectural foundations of a great photograph. Every beautiful image had a central focus, and generally a secondary interest. A master of backlighting and using a three-quarter pose, Horst created almost magical images full of mystery, light, grace, and elegance.

First working with the f/64 group during the mid 20th century, Ruth Bernhard explored and understood the potential of the female body as an almost inexhaustible subject. The shapes and curves of the body activate her photographs so that they almost effortlessly spring to life. The volumes of the body play against gradations of light and create a fascinating human landscape. She produced a sensual but elegant and refined body of work, treating the female body through a classic approach. Bernhard was a pioneer in the same spirit as Horst. They both were sure-handed, unafraid of breaking through boundaries, and capitalized on the expressive potential of photography.

Patrick Demarchelier continues the lineage of great photographers of women, first gaining notoriety in the 1970s for his unique photographic style while working for Vogue as Horst had decades before. Primarily a portrait and fashion photographer of women, Demarchelier has made a prolific career shooting and capturing some of the most well-known personalities of the 20th century such as Princess Diana and Madonna and continues to do so today. His unique melding of personality and figure with background and setting creates a dynamic atmosphere in which his alluring subjects meet their full potential through his fluid and adaptable style. Demarchelier often references the frontal styles of Avedon in some of his direct frontal gaze portraits and creates a world of enhanced light. His continued success in representing the seductive side of a woman makes him one of the most in demand contemporary photographers.

Although Albert Watson has had a multi-faceted career shooting a variety of subjects, his portraits of women are among his most acclaimed work. Also a Vogue photographer beginning in the 1970s like Demarchelier, much of Watson’s personal and commercial work in fashion and nudes are imbued with a meditative aura and atmosphere. Through his expert use of lighting his subjects, and his soft, filtered range of colors, Watson’s portraits take the viewer into the image through his distinct visual with references from art history, cinema, and popular culture. His work can range from surreal to sublimely beautiful. Renowned for such images as his nudes of Kate Moss in Marrakech and his silhouette of Naomi Campbell, Watson explores female beauty and remains an unpredictable photographer. He has drawn inspiration from cinema, popular culture, and fine art.

The legacy of both fashion photographs and nudes has left us with sophisticated and well-crafted images which have set a high standard of aesthetic beauty and image composition. Today’s most talented photographers have a strong foundation to work from and are finding a contemporary voice to create fresh, great images.